Pool Construction

Pool Construction

Pools are Built on Trust, Experience, and Quality

Spartan Pools specialize in Vinyl Liner Inground Swimming Pools. A vinyl liner allows you to pick the style, color, and design of your pool, as well as protect your pool from Michigan’s ever-changing climate and conditions. You pick the size and shape, as well as what features you desire (e.g. diving board, slide, lights, fountains, stamped/colored/textured concrete, etc…), and we do the rest.

Spartan Pools is with you from the beginning of your pool planning to the end and every summer after that. We dig the hole to spec; aided by laser technology and years of excavation experience. We set in place galvanized steel panels and cement them in to form sturdy, lifetime guaranteed, pool walls. We create a hard-bottom pool floor that withstands Michigan’s harsh weather conditions. We install only the most high-quality liners from suppliers we trust. We do our own flat work. We do all this for you to ensure the pool you get is the pool you want. Accept no substitutes!

We make sure (every step of the way) that you have invested in a quality pool that affords every bit of relaxation and enjoyment you and your family deserve. Our pools are backed by an unmatched warranty/guarantee for your peace of mind.
Spartan Pools has been installing inground pools for more than 50 years. Drawing on experience, rigorous training, and the use of cutting-edge technology, our crew of knowledgeable installers will have you swimming in the lap of luxury this summer and every summer in the future.

 

Liner Replacement

Is your liner starting to show its age? Do wrinkles, holes, and tears in your vinyl liner have you losing water and losing patience? Has the liner in your pool started to fade or become too brittle to trust? It may be time for a new liner.

Spartan Pools has been installing liners in the Mid-Michigan and Great Lakes Bay Region for half a century. We have the experience and know-how to replace your old liner and have you swimming in luxury and comfort in virtually no time at all. The crew of pool technicians at Spartan Pools will measure your pool to its exact liner specifications, drain the pool, remove the old liner, and install a new liner of your choice. Liners are available in hundreds of unique size, color, and design choices.

Liner, labor and new water are warrantied. We will even take a water sample and bring your pool back to where it was chemical. Satisfaction is guaranteed.

If your concrete deck is need of attention, we do that too! We will remove, and replace your deck with all new reinforced concrete. Even the copying and plumbing of your pool (if it is in bad shape) can be replaced at the time of a reline.

Send us a message via poolpros@spartanpools.com or call us at 989-792-5351 for your no charge estimate.

Keep it fun! Keep it Safe!

Pool Safety is the number one most important aspect of pool ownership.  A swimming pool is a great way to relax and have fun, but it does harbor very real dangers that must be met with responsibility and respect.  Spartan Pools is here to help educate you on proper pool safety rules and practices.  However, the following information serves as a starter guide/checklist designed to help promote and support safety awareness and education in and around residential swimming pool areas. This information is not intended to be used as an exclusive reference for consumers (and others) to ensure that proper safety installation, operation, measures, and equipment have been met.

Here are several safety tips to get you started:

ADULT SUPERVISION
Adult supervision is the #1 most important safety guideline for all swimmers.  At least one adult (who is not swimming) should keep a sober eye on the pool and everyone in it.  This person should not be afraid to enforce pool safety rules and should understand the importance of safe practices in and around any open body of water.

Fencing
It is required that all inground pools have a fence installed which encloses the swimming pool area.  The fence should be a minimum of 4-feet high. Many different types of fence are available to suit need and style preference. Such as Chain link, wooden, ornamental, even thick hedges, etc…
Important: Present ideas/plans to your local building code office before proceeding.

Safety Covers
A non-penetrating mesh cover that completely covers pool can be installed easily, blocking access to pool water.

Alarms
Some people have opted to put an alarm in or near their pool, which triggers a loud sound to warn parents or guardians. Alarms include, but are not limited to door Exit/Home Security, Fence Gate, Pool, etc…

Rope and Float Line
Safety ropes and float lines can be placed across the pool to visually alert swimmers to the separation of deep and shallow end of the pool.

Life Ring, Shepherd’s Crook (Hook)
Life rings (or preservers) and other life-saving devices should be kept near the pool within plain view and easily accessible.  These devices are used to pull someone from the pool to safety.  Periodically check and keep all safety equipment in proper condition.

Emergency Information and Safety Kit
A first aid kit is always a good idea to keep in a safe and convenient location. Periodically check to make sure the kit is well stocked with all the essentials. Most importantly, remember to post all CPR, emergency (911 or other) contact information and warning signs in a visible spot near the pool.

Safety Drills:
Perform regular pool safety drills to remind everyone what to do/where to go in the event of an emergency in or around the pool.

Outside Telephone:
A cordless, or cellular phone is convenient and a good idea especially if you need to call for help or information quickly and without leaving the pool area.

Sunscreen
Skin cancer is a very real threat.  Always wear sunscreen!  Choose the level of protection that’s right for you and use it! Even on cooler, cloudy days, the sun’s ultraviolet rays can burn and damage skin cells.

Cleaners, Chemicals, and Maintenance
All cleaning and maintenance supplies should be kept in a locked storage area, away from children and pets. Always check supply labels for proper storage requirements and expiration dates.

Chemical Spills
Spills happen.  Practice care and caution when applying chemicals to the pool, always read the directions, and in the event of a spill:

  • USE EXTREME CAUTION!
  • Be sure that no contaminant is present. Some common contaminants are household cleaners, detergents, bleaches, solvents, ammonia, fertilizers, gasoline, or kerosene.
  • Wear protective gear (safety goggles, rubber gloves, etc…)
  • Isolate the spilled material in a clean, dry container away from other stored chemicals, preferably outside the house or shed.
  • Use only clean, dry brooms, shovels, and containers. DO NOT use a vacuum cleaner
  • Separate spilled material from the original container. NEVER return spilled material to original container.
  • NEVER put spilled material in any sewer or drain.
  • Small amounts of clean, spilled material can be added to your pool water. Check water chemistry to avoid imbalance.
  • IF ANY EVIDENCE OF A FIRE OCCURS, EVACUATE THE AREA IMMEDIATELY AND CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT!!

We hope this helps keep your summer fun happy and healthy!  If you have any questions, concerns, or additional tips about pool safety please feel free to contact us and we will be glad to help.

Operational Tips

Important! This is to be used as a general overview only. Possible options make it impossible to cover every aspect. The operating manuals that came with your equipment should be read first including any safety items.

GENERAL POOL OPERATION GUIDELINES

  • Important – The water level inside the pool should always be greater than the ground water outside the pool – this is true regardless of the type of construction.
  • Never drain a swimming pool unless advised to do so by a qualified pool professional. Almost all repairs and water quality problems can be fixed without draining the pool.

POOL CARE:

Pool Care falls into five categories. A clean clear pool requires:

  • Circulation
  • Filtration
  • Cleaning
  • Water chemistry
  • Testing

POOL ANATOMY

The first thing you need to know is how a pool functions. Refer to the diagram below to develop an understanding of how a pool system is designed to operate.

NOTE: The information presented in this section is not intended to depict all pools. We understand that pool design and plumbing methods vary widely. Accept this information on the basis of understanding an average pools operation system.

The pool equipment and plumbing are designed to keep water moving. The suction-side of the system pulls the water from the pool to the pump. The pressure side of the system delivers the filtered (and sometimes heated) water back to the pool.

  • Circulation: is provided by the main pool pump. Water is drawn out of the pool thru the bottom drain or the side skimmer. The water is then forced thru the filter media then back to the pool, possibly passing thru a heater or chlorinator. The pump should operate (on average) 12 hours. Ideally, operate your pump 24 hours per day.  THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO KEEP IN MIND IS THE POOL WATER MUST CIRCULATE COMPLETELY AT LEAST ONCE DAILY.  A general guideline for this is to check out the GPH (gallons per hour) of your pump.  If you can figure out the gallonage of your pool, figure out how many hours the pump must run to fully circulate the pool.  Regularly check the pressure at the filter and the flow back to the pool. Check to see if the pressure is 10-12 lbs higher than when the filter was clean or if the flow appears reduced. This would indicate it is time to clean the filter. Refer to your filter guide for specific directions on how to do this.Regularly check the baskets at the skimmer and pump for debris. If necessary, shut off the pump and remove these for cleaning. Often when you first start your pump or when the basket is removed from the pump it will be necessary to re-prime the pump before restarting. This process requires removing the pump lid and adding water to the pump, replacing the lid and restarting the pump. Usually, all valves can be left in their normal operation position. The pump may require 2-3 minutes to work the air out of the lines.
  • Filtration: A filter removes particles that can cloud the water and compete for your sanitizer’s attention. Refer to your filter guide for information on how to clean the filter.
  • Cleaning: Vacuuming and brushing the pool surface helps to prevent many problems. Even with the use of automatic cleaners, it is recommended that you regularly brush the pool surfaces Algae and bio-film can cling to the surface and make a starting point for algae and other possible problems. For most pools the procedure to manually vacuum the pool is as follows: First, the pump should be started and the filter cleaned. (Refer to your filter and pump guide if necessary). Next, attach the vacuum head to the pole, then attach the vacuum hose to the head (if the hose has a swivel cuff at one end, care should be taken to attach the swivel end to the vacuum head. Set the head into the pool. At this time the vacuum hose needs to be filled with water. This can be accomplished in a couple of ways: Either grab the hose where it comes from the vacuum head to the surface , then continually push the hose under water until you reach the loose end or hold the loose end over one of the returns (with the pump running) until all the air is forced out of the hose. Hold your palm over the free end (to keep the hose full of water) and pull it to the side skimmer. Remove the skimmer lid, set the “skim vac” over the basket and attach the hose to the “skim-vac”.Note that you may or may not have a “skim-vac” (it looks like a shallow funnel, it’s the main purpose is to allow debris to get caught in the basket at the skimmer, which is often easier to clean. Also be aware that on some pools it is necessary to push the hose thru the skimmer opening (in this case the “skim-vac” will most likely have an elbow ). Some older skimmers do not have a “skim-vac” or other vacuum plate and were designed to attach the vacuum hose to the bottom of the skimmer or could be connected to a side wall suction port, bypassing the skimmer altogether. The last method is most commonly seen on pools with gutters (no skimmers) and sometimes on pools without a bottom drain.At this point, water should be flowing thru the vacuum head & hose, thru the pump into the filter and back to the pool. Some air may have entered during the hookup step and may have to work its way thru the system. Because most pools have more than the side skimmer providing water to the pump and because the pump will find it easier to get water from these sources than to draw water up thru the vacuum hose, it will most likely be necessary to restrict or stop the water from these other suction lines in order to provide proper suction at the vacuum head. Try moving the vacuum over debris. If too little suction is present check to see that the pump didn’t loose it’s prime. Reprime the pump if necessary or start to turn off lines feeding the pump (other than the line the vacuum is attached to, this line needs to be fully open) until the suction is adequate to catch the debris. Conversely if too much suction is present, it makes it difficult to move the vacuum head. Open any suction lines that allow the pump to get additional water. “How much” is often a matter of personal preference. Too little suction can make the task of cleaning the pool slow and tedious whereas to much can make moving the vacuum head a feat requiring some strength.

    Once regulated to your liking, the vacuum is moved methodically over the pool floor lifting debris that will catch in the baskets and filter. After a while, the baskets may become filled and/or the filter may become dirty, reducing water flow making it difficult to vacuum. You will have to stop the pump, remove the vacuum hose connection, clean the baskets and filter, then start over. If only a light amount of debris is present, you may be able to clean the entire pool in one cycle. If a large amount of debris or algae is present may require several cycles. If the later is the case, there may be a more practical approach. Many filters have 6-way valves that allow you to pump water from the pool directly to waste by placing the valve in the waste or drain position. Important: do not confuse the waste/drain position with the backwash position. Never vacuum a pool while the filter is in the backwash position. Also, be aware while vacuuming to waste that you are removing water from the pool at a rapid rate. It is helpful to start with a pool overly full and keep the source water hose adding makeup water as you proceed. This method is best used to remove approximately 70% of the debris from the worst areas, then switch back to normal procedures to finish up. It allows you to save time in cases where it would be necessary to stop to clean the filter several times. This procedure can also be used when the debris is so fine that the filter is having trouble catching it and is being returned to the pool. Some types of algae fall into this category.

  • Chemistry: Adding the proper products at the right time helps to prevent corrosion, scale, algae, bacteria problems and helps keep water clear, clean, attractive and safe. Review the Water Treatment page for more specific guidelines concerning water chemistry.
  • Testing: Testing helps tell us what chemicals to add to maintain proper water chemistry. Proper water chemistry helps to prevent disease, protects the pools surfaces, equipment and provides sparkling clear water.Sanitizers are added to the water to control the growth of disease-causing bacteria. Two families of products are used to accomplish this task. Halogens are the most common. Chlorine and Bromine both fall into this category, with chlorine being the most common. Chlorine is also a powerful oxidizer and is often used as a shock or Burnout® to help rid the pool of perspiration, oils, and contaminants too small for the filter to remove. The second group is called Biguanides. Biguanides are polymer compounds that disrupt the cellular activity of bacteria.These compound are found in non-chlorine products like BioGuards Softswim ® program.It is important to note that many products are not compatible and mixing them can be dangerous. Consulting with the knowledgeable chemistry people at Spartan Pools can help you to select a program that best suits your needs and to help balance cost with convenience and ease of use.

    All of our programs use a 3-STEP approach to producing safe clear inviting water. Before starting a 3-step program be sure to have your water properly balanced. This sets the stage for your program to work properly and it prevents corrosion and scale from damaging your pool and equipment. The PH, alkalinity, calcium hardness and temperature all have an effect on the pool’s tendency to be corrosive or scale forming. This 3-STEP approach always starts with sanitizing to prevent bacteria. The second step requires oxidation to clarify the water. Finally, add an algaecide to help prevent unsightly algae.

    The water should be tested 3-4 times a week for the variables that can change quickly (ph, total alkalinity, and oxidizer levels) plus have a complete workup after your initial fill or spring start up, then 2-3 times during the summer and again prior to fall closure. This complete testing is done by bringing a sample of your pool water into Spartan Pools, Inc. where our lab testing includes tests for those elements that do not readily change and therefore do not need to be tested as frequently. There is no charge for this in store testing.

    Our hope is to educate our customers so that pool care is easy and problems are few. Our pool care guide, equipment guides, and store personnel are all valuable tools to further your education. Also each spring we sponsor a “Pool School” where customers learn and ask questions. Should a problem arise, you may need to provide information about your equipment type, brand, and model numbers. It is a good idea to organize all your literature in a common folder.

Losing Water?

Losing Water?

Locally, Spartan Pools can do the leak detection for you from start to finish. However, if you are interested in saving time and money you can do so by completing the following testing.First, determine if the pool is losing water. This may sound odd, but it is not infrequent that customers think they have a leak but evaporation is the problem. Evaporation can account for as much as ¾” daily in our area.

First, determine if the pool is losing water. This may sound odd, but it is not infrequent that customers think they have a leak but evaporation is the problem. Evaporation can account for as much as ¾” daily in our area.

IS THE POOL LOSING WATER?

  1. Mark the water level
  2. Put the solar cover in place in the pool.*
  3. Measure the water loss in 24 hours (For best results, care should be taken to avoid testing during a rain)
  4. Initial test inches lost ______________

If the pool is shown to be losing water, perform the following test to help determine why:

First make sure that water is not dripping out of the backwash, bottom of the pump or that you have some obvious plumbing leaks. A small drip accounts for more water than what you would think.

  1. Refill the pool to its normal water level and mark the water line.
  2. Turn off the pump.If the pool is equipped with a timer, be sure to disable it.
  3. Put your winter plugs into the returns and plug off the skimmer.
  4. Shut off the valve that controls the bottom (main) drain, at the front of the pump.
  5. Put on the solar cover to prevent evaporation.*
  6. After 24 hours check the water level.
    1. If the pool does not loose any water the problem is in the lines or filter.Call Spartan Pools at 989-792-5351 to schedule a service call to pressure test your lines.
    2. If the pool continues to lose water, the problem is in the liner, main drain or possible the light. Call a diver who inspects liners and patches holes/plugs main drains.
    3. If no leaks in the liner are found the diver will plug the main drain. Once this has been done you can contact have the main drain line pressure tested.

Our standard leak detection service requires the pool bottom be clean, the water clear and in good balance. There must be a minimum of 2 feet of water in the shallow end for the diver, if required.

* If you do not have a solar cover, you will have to do what is commonly called the bucket test.Place water from the pool into a 5-gallon bucket. Mark the water level in the bucket and mark the pool water level. By comparing the water loss from the bucket with the pool you should be able to determine if the loss is equal to or more than evaporation. Both the bucket and the pool will evaporate at the same rate.

Calculating Pool Volume

How many gallons are in my pool?

Knowing the volume of your pool is crucial knowledge for a pool owner.  Everything from chemical doses to filter run-time is figured by the number of gallons of pool water your pool holds.

The easiest way to calculate pool volume is this:

Length x Width x Average Depth x Multiplier = Gallons

The Multiplier depends on your pool’s shape:

  • Round and Oval Pools = 5.9
  • Rectangle, Square, or Free-Form Pools: 7.5

Average Depth is calculated by:

(Shallowest Depth + Deepest Depth) ÷ 2 = Average depth

Water Treatment

Water Treatment

You could be a brand new pool owner or a long time pool owner. Most importantly, you are a smart pool owner. You have decided to use Spartan Pools approved, BioGuard® products and the expertise of Spartan Pools’ pool professionals.

Pool maintenance should be as easy and painless as possible. That is why BioGuard® has developed 3 step pool care programs. Combine one of these programs with the “5 Keys” to brilliant water and you’re on your way to a brilliantly clear pool.

  • Key #1 Circulation/Filtration – Your pools filtration system removes debris and places your water into motion, making it harder for bacteria and algae to take hold. You should run your filtrations system a minimum of 10 hours per day – the idea is to run it 24 hours a day.
  • Key #2 Cleaning – All swimming pools have certain areas with little circulation. The water against the walls and floor is especially attractive to algae and bacteria. These areas should be brushed weekly, even if you use an automatic pool cleaner.
  • Key #3 Testing – Test your water to prevent damage and safety issues. The level of sanitizer is important in killing bacteria. Water “balance” prevents corrosion and scale. Frequent testing will help keep you and your pool happy. Most test kits and test strips provide you with the tools to test the items that are most important or most likely to quickly change. Additionally, several items are more difficult to test or require adjustment less frequently. Plan to bring a quart sample of pool water to Spartan Pools at pool opening, then every 4 to 6 weeks and again just before closing.
  • Key #4 Water Maintenance – Apply the recommended products to your pool water in a timely manner – to keep your pool sanitary and balanced to protect the equipment and pool surface. Ideal ranges can vary depending on sanitizer type and pool surface (vinyl/plaster/fiberglass).
  • Key #5 Optimize – Adding Optimizer Plus® enhances water quality, reduces eye and skin irritation, suppresses algae and creates sparkling clear pool water. Because Optimizer Plus® helps your sanitizer concentrate on its primary job, less sanitizer may be needed – a money saving situation. Please note: adding Optimizer Plus® is not one of the BioGuard® 5 keys, we feel it should be. Preliminary testimonials from our customers have all been positive.

SANITIZING

Besides crystal clear water, we know pool owners look for easy effective pool care. You can use one of the Bioguard® 3-step programs, chlorine or non-chlorine, or combine the chlorine program with Nature² to produce a low chlorine program. But what program is right for you?

A stabilized chlorine program is:

  • Cost effective – larger pools require more chemicals and chlorine is the low-cost leader.
  • More tools – if you do experience a problem, there is a multitude of tools to help correct it.

A non-chlorine program like Softswim® offers:

  • Gentle, effective pool care
  • All liquid, means no mixing, diluting or feeders are necessary
  • Saves, time. the application needed about every two weeks
  • Chlorine free, tired of heavy drums or splashing liquid chlorine on your clothing
  • Convenient, less testing and fewer adjustments because the application is every two weeks. The 3 products are more pool friendly. You will have the most consistent water balance of any option

Visit us at Spartan Pools, we can help you decide what is best for your pool.

The Unknown’s of a Spring Opening Revealed!

It’s that time of year again!

You know what that means; It’s time to pump off your pool! As spring brings warmer weather (and rain), we bide our time, waiting for the perfect moment to open our pools. Since we closed the pool when it was spotless, perfectly balanced, and chemically treated for hibernation, the water should be clear (if not we’ll do a blog about clearing up a pool in the spring soon I promise). We just need to take the cover off and get the water moving, right? Those of you who know, know that getting the cover off is easier said than done.

Get rid of the water on your cover!

Now, most people are using mesh safety covers to tuck their pools in (your blog article is coming so stay tuned), but above ground pool owners who have little other option, and the inground owners who cling to their standard (or tarp style) don’t have the luxury of a cover that sheds water. The whole purpose of the standard cover is to form a barrier over the pool for the winter that keeps the pool out of the sun, free from debris, and stop rain and snow melt from mixing with our carefully maintained pool water (or so we think). The effect is the snow melt, rain, rain, and more rain accumulates on the cover and needs to be pumped off before pulling the cover off.

The water on top of the cover is not treated as your pool water is. It is not kept out of the sun like the water under the cover. That water is stagnant, full of wind blown debris, and putting stress on the cover itself. Every pool owner should have a small cover pump, submersible pump, a siphon, or some way to get that water off. Ideally, this should be something we do periodically during the winter, and for best results come spring, do this at least a couple times over the off season.
RULE #1: Whether you’re pumping once a month or once a winter, remember to compensate for displacement.

**DISPLACEMENT COMPENSATION:
The more water you pump off the cover, the more water you will add to the pool.**

The water level you see on top of the pool cover IS your current water level under the cover. The more strain the cover is put under, the less watertight it becomes. As you are pumping water off the top of the cover, you will be losing pool water as well. STICK A RUNNING GARDEN HOSE UNDER THE COVER TO MAKE UP FOR WATER DISPLACEMENT. I’m not yelling, but If you don’t put a hose under the cover, and you notice the water has dropped significantly when you are done, you do not have a leak. Do not panic. You have just learned first hand how water displacement works.
Covers that have holes in them (even very small holes) should not be reused. The barrier is down and you’re mixing pool water with cover water already. The displacement you will experience with a swiss cheese cover could be catastrophic.
Safety is always paramount. If using an electric pump, plug into a GFI protected outlet, and inspect the cords for nicks, cuts, cracks, and frays. Be careful leaning over to place the pump. Don’t pump alone. Don’t drink and pump (seriously). The last thing you want to do is fall in your closed pool.

Pool Cover Tips:

  1.  Make sure the drain hose is long enough to get a good distance away from the pool and from the house (preferably to the gutter, ditch or drain field).
    Scoop as much debris and leaves and solid whatnot out before and during a pump off. Anything that’s large enough to block the pump intake is going to be bad for the pump and slow your progress. Plus left unchecked, the debris can cause damage to the cover itself.
  2.  Brush the cover as you pump off. The small stuff that is suspended will likely pass right through the pump and be drained out.
  3. Keep a close eye on the pool as you pump it off. Depending on the method, the amount of water being pumped off, and the size of the pool, the time it takes may be an hour, two hours, or a whole day. If you can’t be around to monitor your progress, stop pumping. You can attack this task in stages.

By pumping the water off the cover, you’ve made it safe to remove the cover without contaminating your pool. The pre-open procedure can save you hundreds of dollars and hours of time. Pools are for relaxing in, not working on. Just remember: A little elbow grease can make for a more relaxing summer!

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